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The New American Maker

By | Social Enterprise, The Thagomizer | One Comment

If this were a video or radio show I would start with clips from this 1960s movie on the American Maker. Since I’m a blogger, I’ll just highly encourage you to watch the first 90 seconds of this video before continuing on to the rest of the post.

I start with this romantic view of an era of American industry because today I want to harken back to a time where Americans were defined by our ability to produce quality products with both beauty and function. “Of all the things Americans are, we are makers,” the film tells us in its opening. When I think of the American Makers, I think of my grandparents and their siblings who live in rural Ohio. Each one of them has a hobby, from making wooden toys to beautiful fountain pens, to quilting, to making jams and pies. Everything exchanged between them on Christmas are things they have made by hand. It’s a culture of making very emblematic of this video, and a culture that has unfortunately largely died out.

“We no longer celebrate the way things get made. We are more interested in the way things get bought,” Mike Rowe wrote in his piece in Fast Company on how to jump start the American auto industry. You might recognize Rowe’s name from Dirty Jobs. As the host, he tours America, apprenticing in strange, messy, and hard jobs alongside the people who work them (hear stories of his work in his TED Talk below). As a result of his work on Dirty Jobs he realized there was a massive problem in America: hard work, craftsmanship, and making were becoming devalued, despite the important role they played in making our lives possible.

It reminded him of a poster he saw in his high school’s counselor’s office. “In the long history of bad advice, you’d have look pretty hard to find something dumber than Work Smart Not Hard,” he said in a film about him remaking the poster that advocated going to college to ensure you didn’t end up doing manual labor. Rowe instead advocates the we have to work smart and hard. The four year degree is considered almost a prerequisite to entering the middle class job market while skilled labor and technical know-how is no longer brought up as an option to most “bright” students. Mike Rowe would like to change that.

“Consider the reality of today’s job market,” Rowe wrote on the website for his mikeroweWORKS Foundation, dedicated to providing resources and scholarships for those getting into trade work: “We have a massive skills gap. Even with record unemployment, millions of skilled jobs are unfilled because no one is trained or willing to do them. Meanwhile, unemployment among college graduates is at an all-time high, and the majority of those graduates with jobs are not even working in their field of study. Plus, they owe a trillion dollars in student loans. A trillion! And still, we push a four-year college degree as the best way for the most people to find a successful career?”

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There continues to be a class divide between thinkers, those destined for office jobs, and makers, those destined for trade jobs.  You can see the beginnings of the maker/thinker class divide in education. Students who excel in classes take advance placement courses where they learn Sophocles or calculus while those not doing well in the classroom are sent to alternative schools where they learn to work on cars or run a print shop. “Smart” kids go to college and sit in offices, the rest resort to manual labor. Yet, I believe most successful people need both kinds of education. There is incredible value in learning another language, understanding Shakespeare, and knowing stoichiometry. There is also incredible value in learning how to build a robot, repair a car, and sew a shirt.  We need our students to be thinkers and makers. There is opportunity in both.

While our parents sought to get away from manual labor, you do see more people in my generation desiring to go back to jobs that get them outside the cubicle. More and more college educated students are going to the farms after graduation to intern. “It’s almost like a third education after college,” one younger man interviewed in a Huffington Post article said of his internship on an organic farm. I was personally one of those people who interned on a farm one summer while I was in college and while there is a lot to learn in the classroom, there is just as much to be learned digging in the dirt. In fact most people I know who became farmers are far happier then those who went on to office work.

The growth of the Maker Faires and hackerspaces in America does give me some hope for the resurgence of the American maker. We are seeing now a resurgence of maker communities and people who  want to tinker, build, and create, not just consume. New robotics and lego build programs in schools give students the opportunities to be makers in schools. Places like Pinterest are popping up with thousands of ideas for Do It Yourself fixes and crafts. Etsy, now makes it easier than ever before to create and buy hand made wares. There is new opportunity for Americans to once again make things.

Perhaps it is too idealistic to think that Pinterest, hackerspaces, and youth robotics teams could spell a new era for American industry. What they do let us do is tap into a part of our history, our culture, that we nearly allowed to be forgotten. “We’ve become profoundly disconnected from a critical part of our workforce. The skilled part. The part that keeps the lights on,” Mike Rowe wrote on his website. It’s time to once again celebrate the American Maker.

Making Fairer Fashion

By | Art & Social Change, Crafting Change | One Comment

Most people in the U.S. probably can barely sew on a button, much less make an outfit from scratch. But fifty years ago, making your own clothes was the norm. My grandmother made her own clothes and her children’s clothes. My mom learned to sew by making outfits for her Barbies. But like most of my generation, I grew up more often heading to the mall for back-to-school shopping than making anything myself.

Globalized, industrial production has drastically reduced the price of clothing, but it has also introduced other issues. Shocking news stories of sweatshop labor have made a lot of people rethink where they buy their clothes. As we’ve become removed from the production process, we have to ask ourselves a lot of questions when buying clothes. Where were they made? Who made them? How much were the workers paid? What were working conditions like?

And after those cheap clothes go out of style or we just get sick of them, what do we do with them? According to the EPA, Americans generated over 13 million tons of textile waste in 2010, with 85 percent of that waste going into landfills. Mountains of our rejects are also donated to thrift shops, although many of those items end up being made into rags or shipped to developing countries for resale. If you’ve seen the bales of used clothing being processed at DeBois Textiles in Southwest Baltimore you have an idea of the enormous quantity of clothes that get discarded all the time. When clothes are cheap and fashions change quickly, people will naturally buy more and throw away more.

So what’s a fashionista to do when faced with all these questions? One way to shop ethically is by buying clothes secondhand, or from companies with certified fair labor practices. Another strategy that’s becoming more popular is making your own clothes. You know exactly where and how it was made, and you don’t have to worry about whether your money went to a company that practices child labor or mistreats their workers. If you use upcycled materials or alter secondhand clothes, you’re even taking these things out of the waste stream. More young people are picking up the sewing machine again; sewing classes are popping up around the country and the web abounds with patterns and advice for making clothes (some examples here, here and here for how to turn thrift store finds into great new pieces).

Admittedly, not everyone may have the time or the resources to make their own clothes, but having basic sewing skills is a huge help when you need to mend something or make minor alterations. It means you can patch that hole or take in a seam instead of tossing something. In my own adventures in sewing, I’ve learned that it’s much easier than I thought to make or alter a lot of things. I’ve altered a lot of clothes that didn’t fit me quite right, which I would have otherwise given to Goodwill. When I consider buying something, I now think “could I make that myself instead?”

I don’t see a return to making all our clothes by hand, but I do think that making your own can make us rethink how we buy and see potential in things we may have seen as trash.

Crafting for Change

By | Art & Social Change, Crafting Change | 2 Comments

A movement of self-proclaimed “craftivists” has emerged in recent times, devoted to the answering the question: “How can craft improve the world?”

Betsy Greer, who coined the term craftivism, defines it as “a way of looking at life where voicing opinions through creativity makes your voice stronger, your compassion deeper & your quest for justice more infinite.” Craftivists are knitting to protest sweatshop labor, cross-stitching anti-war messages and taking over public spaces with projects like Massive Knit NYC, in which knitters adorned trees, benches and other objects in Washington Square Park with yarn.

While most crafters, from the occasional scarf knitter to the hardcore DIY-er, probably do not think of themselves as craftivists, even the everyday crafter is making a statement simply by making something instead of buying it. Making your own subverts our consumerist culture where most things are bought and soon thrown away. Handmade items are an antidote to mass-produced, impersonal goods. By using re-purposed materials, crafting reduces waste. It fosters resourcefulness and reusing or mending things instead of throwing them away.

In this space, I’ll be exploring how people are using crafting for activist purposes (be it political, environmental, feminist, etc.), as well as how the craft and DIY movement generally empowers people to create rather than consume, and reduce their environmental footprint.

But craft can also simply be a force for empathy and connection – a small, good thing in a time of crisis. After the shooting at Sandy Hook Elementary School, one crafter decided to put her skills to use for the children of Newtown. Kim Piscatelli was inspired by the children’s book “The Kissing Hand,” about a raccoon going to school for the first time. He is anxious about leaving home, so his mother kisses his palm as a reminder of her love, telling him to hold it up to his cheek whenever he misses her. Piscatelli wanted to give the children of Newtown a similar reminder, so she organized her friends to make hand-knit mittens with a heart on the palm for each child at the school. The mittens are meant to remind the kids of how much they are loved by their families and friends.

Word got out about the project and soon crafters all over the U.S. and beyond were knitting, crocheting, and sewing mittens and sending them to Connecticut. Nearly 600 pairs have been collected so far. While it doesn’t take a political stance, this is a great example of crafters coming together to support a cause. Stay tuned for some more radical examples of craftivism!

[Photo via The Kissing Hand Mitten Project]